How much does damp proofing cost in Gloucester?
Damp patches or mould? Post the job for free and it goes to local tradespeople who cover your area. Only the one who takes it on gets your contact details.
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Finding the cause first
Damp is a symptom, not a diagnosis. Before anyone agrees a treatment, the cause needs working out. Water can come from leaking gutters and downpipes, failed pointing or render, a plumbing leak, garden soil or paving built up against the wall, a bridged damp-proof course, or condensation from everyday living. Each needs a different fix.
Treating the wall without dealing with the source rarely lasts. Injecting a chemical damp-proof course won’t help if the real problem is an overflowing gutter or a patio laid too high. Historic England warns that on older buildings, cement renders, impermeable paints and some chemical treatments can trap moisture and make things worse.
Condensation is common, especially in bedrooms and bathrooms and on cold outside walls. Black mould around windows and in corners often points to it. Better ventilation and heating can make a big difference, and that isn’t a building job.
A good tradesperson will look outside as well as in. They’ll check gutters, ground levels, airbricks and the condition of the walls before suggesting any work. Be cautious of anyone who recommends a treatment before explaining what’s causing the damp.
For a persistent problem, or on an older or listed building, an independent survey by someone who isn’t selling the treatment can be worth it. If you rent, report damp to your landlord in writing.
What to include when you post
The more a tradesperson can see before they visit, the better their first judgement will be. Include:
- Photos of the damp patches inside, with something for scale
- Photos of the same wall from outside, including gutters, downpipes and ground level
- Which room and which wall, and whether it’s ground floor or higher
- How long it’s been there and whether it’s worse after rain or in winter
- Whether there’s mould, peeling paint, tide marks or salt deposits
- The rough age of the house and how the walls are built, if you know
- Any previous damp treatment and when it was done
What to ask
The key question is simple: what do you think is causing it, and how do you know? A good answer will refer to what they found outside and in. A meter reading on its own isn’t a diagnosis.
Also ask:
- Whether there’s a cheaper fix to try first, such as clearing gutters or lowering ground levels
- What materials they’ll use, and whether they suit the age of your walls
- Whether replastering is included, and with what
- What any guarantee covers, who backs it, and whether it depends on the cause being fixed
- How long the wall needs to dry before decorating
Get the diagnosis and the proposed work in writing before agreeing to anything.
Not quite the right job?
See every job on our Builder page, or post it anyway and describe it in your own words.
Before a tradesperson starts work
Registrations
Some work must be done by a registered professional. Work on a gas boiler, cooker or fire must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer, which you can check on the Gas Safe Register.
Our business check
Limited companies are checked with Companies House and sole traders upload their insurance certificate. Trade registrations are confirmed by the tradesperson when they sign up.
Get the price in writing
Ask for a written quote that sets out the work and the price before anything starts. Your contract for the work is with the tradesperson.
Questions
What people tend to ask before booking this job. For anything specific to your home, ask the tradesperson who takes it on when they get in touch.
They can look similar but need different fixes. Mould on cold walls, ceilings and around windows often points to condensation. Tide marks low on walls can have several causes, including leaks and high ground outside, so have the cause checked before any treatment.
If you're being quoted for major damp treatment, an independent survey by someone who isn't selling the treatment can confirm the cause before you commit.
Only if a failed or missing damp-proof course is really the cause. On many homes the damp comes from gutters, leaks, ground levels or condensation, and a new damp-proof course won't touch those.
Often, where the plaster has been damaged by salts or is crumbling. The type of plaster matters, especially on older solid walls. Ask what they'll use and why.
Yes. If the ground or paving outside is higher than the damp-proof course, or covers airbricks, water can get into the wall. Lowering the ground or adding a drainage channel is often cheaper than any treatment.